Saturday, June 13, 2015

Two Castles and the Cliffs of Moher

Our brief stay in Killarney had us back on the road the following morning and we continued the sightseeing theme en route to our next destination, Dingle.  Before setting off, we visited the local sites in Killarney National Park on the Muckross Peninsula.  We started with the Muckross House and Garden, a 19th century estate overlooking Muckross Lake. The attraction may not be, "fun for the whole family," but is a popular destination for elderly tourists; similar to the bus load of septuagenarians we saw at Kisasnne Sheep Farm.  Our transient visit lasted long enough to snap a few photographs, walk around the house, and through the gardens.

Muckross House
Need more chimneys
Gardens

A short distance away from the mansion was our next stop, Muckross Friary, an abbey founded by Observantine Fransiscians in the 15th century.  The reaming ruins are well preserved and the most notable among them was the cloister surrounding the yew tree.  We strolled through the grounds and explored inside the monk's sanctuary.  It was early in the morning and with one more attraction to see in the Killarney National Park, we started to debate whether to head to Dingle or spontaneously drive north to see the Cliffs of Moher.

Muckross Friary
Cloister with yew tree in the middle
Looking into the old church

After leaving the Muckross Friary we drove north towards the Ross Castle, three kilometers outside Killarney.   The fortress is situated on the Lough Lein (as did our hotel) and offers tours to visitors for a modest €4 admission.  The lobby inside the castle has historical information placards on the walls and  a scaled three-dimensional model of the fortification in the center of the room.  While observing the model among a group waiting for their tour, we mulled over the decision to join the flock or go see the Cliffs of Moher.  Time was of the essence, the guided walk through started in one minute, but our decision was instantaneous and unanimous - we would drive north to the cliffs.

Ross Castle
Lough Lein

Boats on the water
Bye castle, off to another castle

It was late morning as we prepared for the three hour journey.  We knew we would have to stop near the halfway point and cater to our growing appetites.  Approaching the midway mark of our drive the car's gas tank and our stomachs reached empty.  Conveniently, the fuel light glowed while we actively searched the area for a place to satiate both needs.  From the highway, we saw a castle in the distance and immediately took the next exit.  Subsequently, we found a gas station and the town of Bunratty; a small village with a castle that shared the same name.  We ate hearty meal at a restaurant adjacent the fortress and returned to the road after finishing our pints.

Bunratty Castle
Nom nom nom
Back to the road

We arrived in Liscannor around 15:30, pulling into the inexplicably backed-up parking lot.  Between the three kiosks, we (I) selected the worst of the bunch.  The simple task of pay and park proved overly complex for the cars in front of us (Note: there is nothing else in the vicinity; a parking lot on one side and the cliffs on the other).  Bemused, we waited for ten minutes before we could park and walk across the street.  We headed south, walking along the semi-protected trail and jumped over the small barrier to get a picture near the edge.  At one point, we found a small ditch where we could stand, but from a distance it appeared as if we were hanging from the precipice.  To conclude our time at the Cliffs of Moher, we made our way to O'Brien's Tower and observed the view towards the Aran Islands and Galway Bay.  Unfortunately, with the hour getting late, a dinner reservation, and a long drive ahead - our visit was ultimately cut short.

Cliffs of Moher
On the unprotected side of the trail
Branán Mór Sea Stack

We faced a three hour drive to Dingle and our navigation system directed us towards a ferry; but it was Sunday, there was no knowing how often it departed - if at all.  With no ability to search for a schedule, we changed our course to the slower, more scenic countryside.  The longer drive wouldn't have been an issue had we not had dinner plans to meet up with Julie's relatives from Cork, Peter and Joan (allow me to climb up the sequoia-sized family tree; Peter's great great grandfather is the shared ancestor with Julie's grandmother).  When we arrived to our B&B, both Peter and Joan were sitting in the common area sipping sherry.

Not quite falling
Walking towards O'Brein's Tower
Goodbye cruel world

While the ancestral relationship appears distant, Peter and Joan welcomed us as if we were immediate family.  Their company, hospitality and ingratiating candor made for a memorable account; unique in our travels and most cherished.  After dinner, Peter and Joan wanted to show us a great locale to watch the sunset near their B&B; ironically, 500 meters down the road from ours.  We took pictures, shared some more laughs, and planned have dinner the following night.

22:00 sunset

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